Good Wine Gal Travels: Six Weeks in Portugal From Bottom to Top

Why You'll Fall in Love With Portugal (And Never Want to Leave)​

Portugal is more than a destination; it’s a feeling. It’s the way the light reflects off the tiled buildings in Lisbon, the way a glass of port warms your soul, and the way the waves crash against the cliffs in Nazaré. Every moment and place felt like discovering a small piece of treasure—each adding to the brilliance of this puzzle - this pearl. Portugal isn’t just a place to visit; it’s a place to return to, again and again. If the world is your oyster, then Portugal truly is the pearl—a rare and luminous gem that leaves you enchanted and yearning for more.

The Transformational Journey

What’s your favorite place in Portugal? What more would you like to discover? Here are some of the highlights of my trip - I wandered from bottom to top in the spring of 2024. I would do it again in a heartbeat. In fact, I think Portugal offers a vibrant getaway that Canadians would love. After all, English is the second language.

First Stop Portimão, Algarve

River walk, Portimao

Portimão, a coastal town in the Algarve, welcomed me with the soothing promise of sun, sand, and serenity. After an invigorating yet fast-paced stay in Lisbon, I looked forward to a slower rhythm. My journey began at Lisbon’s Oriente Station, where I boarded a CP train bound for Portimão. Traveling second class, the ride offered scenic views and a peaceful transition from city to coast. A train change at Tunes brought me to a regional line, which eventually delivered me to Portimão, a town I’d selected for its proximity to the famous Praia da Rocha and its reputation as a tranquil retreat.

I stayed at Villa Prana, a yoga and wellness retreat situated a short 15-minute walk from the Ribeira (river) and a 30-minute walk to the golden sands of a really big beach - Praia da Rocha. ​Though yoga wasn’t included in my stay, the villa’s serene atmosphere set the tone for a restorative week. I attended a Yoga Nidra class, a deeply relaxing practice, and indulged in a deep tissue massage that left me refreshed. This marked the beginning of a trans-formative holiday—equal parts exploration and introspection.

Portimão is a seaside port in close proximity to Lagos, Algarve. It rewards walkers with an average of 12,000-14,000 steps per day, to its charm at a decent pace. The town’s dual identity—a working port and a tourist hub—means it has something for everyone. Along the Ribeira are bustling cafés serving fresh seafood, perfect for a leisurely lunch. ​

Benagil Cave Tour

One of the highlights of my week was a two-hour boat tour to the Benagil Caves, one of the Algarve’s most iconic natural wonders. As the boat glided through turquoise waters, the contrast of the golden cliffs against the brilliant blue sky was breathtaking. The caves themselves, with their dramatic openings and other-worldliness, were a feast for the senses—a moment of pure awe.

Évora, Alentejo

Getting from Portimao to Évora by train was a 3 hour journey but well worth it. From the train station in Évora it was a short taxi ride, only 6 E to the Airbnb within the walls of this ancient city. 

Evora town center at night

Walking through Évora was like traveling through layers of history. The city’s Roman Temple,referred to as the Temple of Diana, dates back to the 1st century AD and stands as a testament to Évora's Roman roots. The temple’s granite and marble columns, still remarkably intact, create a striking contrast against the surrounding medieval and Renaissance architecture. It’s a place that invites you to pause and imagine the ancient rituals that once unfolded here. Évora is also home the wine consortium of Alentejo, and hosts a few fine wine bars like Adega Cartuxa, located just steps from Diana Temple. Walking through winding the cobblestone streets is a journey into the past. The walls remain intact and the adventurous who want to get their steps in can walk the circumference of 3 kilometers passing many historic entrances into the city.

Nazaré

From Évora it was a return to Lisbon and then on to Nazaré which included a return to  the Oriente Station where my journey started. Only this time I tried something new - the  FlixBus. This is a bus that you book online and with a booking you get an assigned seat, access to wifi and on board you'll find a bathroom. The journey was quiet, the bus mostly empty and travel time was a short hour to Nazaré. 

View of Nazare from the top of the Funicular

Nazare is a coastal town embraces the power of the Atlantic not only as a food source but also as an attraction. Flags fly daily on the beaches warning of the treachery of the surf from red (danger), yellow to green (safe). The 100 foot wave has created a global sensation of excitement. Surfers come to ride from November to February. Nazaré is also and primarily a fishing village. Time honoured traditions of fish drying in the sun along the board walk still takes place. There is a local market, plenty of good restaurants and a funicular that takes guests to the top of the hill where more history and culture await. Exploring the lighthouse,  riding the funicular, watching the waves and savoring fresh seafood made me feel connected to the rugged beauty of the Portuguese coastline.

Porto & Villa Nova di Gaia

After a week in Nazaré, it was time to bus it to Porto. I was living in anticipation of the women in Wine expo and diving deeply into my love for Port Wine. Porto is a city steeped in history. It introduced me to the tastes of "Francesinha" - a local dish that is like nothing I had tasted before with it's multi-layers of protein including eggs, topped with cheese and a red fish sauce. Delicious. There was no match for the grandeur of the Sao Bento Train Station, sunsets from Jardim do Moro overlooking the riverwalk in Porto with many bridges in view. A tour of Taylor’s Port Wine and the cultural district WoW deepened my appreciation for the region’s rich wine making legacy. What's not to love about Porto!

View from Jardim do Moro, Villa Nova di Gaia

After attending the Women in Wine Expo, I was hosted by Taylor's to tour the cellars and tasting room in Villa Nova di Gaia. To my great delight I was also invited to Wednesday lunch at the Factory House, an honored tradition and something I had only read about in my studies. What an honor to sit with Taylor's master port wine maker, David Guimaraens and to be invited to guess the vintage of the Port Wine being served. To celebrate this hundred year old tradition of the Port Wine houses and their esteemed guests may go down in my personal history as an all time greatest moment! Thanks to my hosts and Ana Margarida for making this experience possible. 

Pinhão

From Porto, I boarded the train at Sao Bento Station that would take me to Pinhão and a into the heart of Port Wine County. This historic region was demarcated in 1776 by the Marquis de Pombal in an effort to protect this regional wine from the fraudsters who were corrupting the export markets..  ​

Quinta do Panascal

Pinhão is a tiny town on the Douro River and gateway to the Quintas or grape farms where a multitude of red grapes are grown for the express production of Port. As I walked through vineyards that have stood for centuries, I felt honor and humility. Visits to Quinta da Roeda and Quinta do Panascal brought the story of port wine full circle, as the terraced hills told tales of labor, tradition, and triumph. Catching a glimpse of 100 year old vines and standing on the stone terraces was truly an out of body experience for this wine gal.

Viseu 

From Pinhão, I caught a train to Regua and then a bus to Viseu, a city that was the capital of Portugal in the 14th century and home the to Dao Wine consortium. 

12th Century Visigoth Castle, Viseu

The Visigoth heritage of Viseu surrounded me as I wandered its ancient streets. From the Grão Vasco Museum to the many churches and gardens, as well as granite wine bars tucked into historic buildings, the city whispered secrets of Portugal’s royal past. The most famous of which were benevolent educators and gardeners bring botanicals and language to the serfs and families that lived and worked in the land. After wandering a few days through Viseu, it was time to take a train to the next capital of Portugal, Coimbra.

Coimbra

Coimbra is another historic city of hills, famous for what resides on top of the highest, one of Europe's oldest universities. The benefits of this institution are felt today with the thousands of young people coming here to learn, and be ambassador's for Portugal's rich history and many traditions - some of which were appropriated by the Harry Potter stories. 

Ottoman influence, Coimbra

Climbing up to the University of Coimbra was a test of stamina and a reminder of the strategic advantage hilltops had over invaders. Age has not impeded the energy of the city which is stories of survival, its black-robed students singing centuries-old songs, carrying on with traditions that bring energy, community and life to this place. It's a big small town but worthy of a stop over for a couple of days. After a few delicious days in Coimbra, it was time to hop back on the train and head to Lisbon for a quick trip to Sintra.

Sintra 

​​Sintra’s castles are as enchanting as its narrow streets. Opting for a TukTuk tour, I soaked up this fairy-tale hillside park-like setting. From the grandeur of its palaces to the serenity of its wooded trails, nothing is left to the imagination other than the question that I kept asking myself - how did they build these castles? These edifices are now museums that showcase the early life, ingenuity and culture that date back to the Ottoman Empire.

Reflection Pond, Sintra

Despite the congestion of Sintra, I found a haven of peace in rare and interesting stops like this moat, the artisan well and the restaurant that served up the best octopus salad I have ever tasted. Sinatra is a must visit even for just a day.

Madeira & Home

​Come for a weekend and stay for the rest of your life. The pace is restorative, the sunshine healing and the waters inviting. It's an island paradise with fragrant breezes that amplify the exotic brought here from around the globe, hundreds of years ago.  And yes, you must sip Madeira - the wine famous from this island paradise.

Overlooking Funchal Harbour

Funchal is a gateway to Madeira’s wonders. From the rugged shoreline, elevated highways and a multitude of tunnels, city vineyards and steep mountain terrain, Madeira has it all. I stayed at the historic Blandy’s Wine Lodge & Apartments, ate "Duck Rice" with CEO, Chris Blandy, savored limpets at 1811 Bistro, wandered the walk-able streets of Funchal bound by sea, mountains, gardens and gates and sipped my first unfortified Madeira wine - Atlantis. I rented a Fiat 300 and drove along the rugged coastline, discovering hidden towns, beautiful beaches and breathtaking views. I am #beachbarbie so this was a slice of heaven. Once you have experienced Madeira, there is no going back.

As my journey came to an end, it was not goodbye, but rather, see you again soon. From Madeira, I flew back to Lisbon for a midday TAP flight to Toronto. Thank you Portugal. It was an unforgettable experience that remains deeply embedded in my wine life and foodie soul.

Is it time to visit Portugal? I have a tour that picks you up in Lisbon and takes you to Evora. The tour lasts 6 days and nights from October 13 - 19th. It's designed to give you a taste of a rich and undiscovered land that rewards you with rest, relaxation and delicious experiences - food, wine and culture. Check out the Good Wine Gal Tour to Southern Portugal. Limited capacity. Perfect for wine lovers, foodies and history buffs. Any questions, let me know,  ​