Shaping the Future of Canadian Food CultureSpotting BC’s own Chef Ned Bell in a theatre full of global culinary champions was my "aha" moment. This event has cast a wide net on how wild foraging, deep agricultural and marine food sources, and the beautiful vulnerability of famous chefs, are shaping the culinary scene in Canada. Resilience, Renewal and Pure "Joy" of FoodIf you want to feel the wild, cinematic mood swings of Western Canada, just look at Calgary's skies over the last weekend of May. The 20th anniversary of the Terroir Symposium kicked off on May 26th, with my journey starting on Friday, May 29th, arriving just in time for the spectacular VIP Opening Reception at the Calgary Zoo's Safari Lounge. The evening started with clear blue skies, a warming 27°C, and a scooter ride inspired by the gorgeous weather, along the beautiful trails at the shores of the Elbow River, from our Airbnb to the Zoo. It was summertime joy. Arriving at the Safari Lounge, we joined a crowd of chefs, industry leaders, international delegates, and media folks tasting through exceptional restaurant stations. From succulent braised bison, earthy grilled mushrooms, pasture-raised beef, and stunningly elevated pastries, I had to try everything. It was a beautiful introduction to Terroir Talks and sourcing local. It was here that I connected with Ontario's Henry of Pelham. Raising a glass of their Cuvee Catherine was the best way to kick off my weekend and adventure attending the Terroir Symposium 2026. Saturday: The City and a Quiet Neapolitanbutterblockyyc.com/Saturday was all about memory lane. I strolled down 17th Ave SW to check out Calgary's thriving food and wine scene. I joined the legendary Richard Harvey for a private tasting of "Harvey Davidson" - his custom partnership brand with Mark Davidson (Wines of Australia's Ambassador to North America) at Metrovino. The Chiroubles Saint Roch was a low-intervention Gamay Noir from Beaujolais. Flavours were vibrant, alive, and on the sauvage side. If you love wine you will also want to check out Vine Arts, with 3 locations in Calgary. And of course, on a long walk, one needs a restorative iced matcha latte paired with a flaky black sesame croissant which I enjoyed at Butter Block Bakery. It was clear that Calgary is still passionate about food, wine and the street party. The real highlight, however, came that evening. Restaurant "Pizza Letty" hosted Daniele Uditi, the master pizzaiolo from Naples, genius behind Pizzana, the celebrated Neo-Neapolitan pizzerias in Los Angeles (backed by actor Chris O'Donnell and Sprinkles Cupcakes founder Candace Nelson) for what was multo bene delicious. In person, Daniele is wonderfully unassuming, the kind of quiet, humble presence you might overlook until you taste his food. The menu featured thick slices of local bison tartare, local asparagus with egg yolk and andouille oil, cacio e pepe pizza, and a classic, somewhat deconstructed tiramisu, all beautifully paired with Italian wines - from Prosecco, Chardonnay, to Chianti Classico, Barolo and Amarone. And yes, I tasted it all. Sunday: The Kitchen Station in the FieldBy Sunday morning, Calgary weather shifted dramatically. Now it was driving rain and a bone-chilling 10°C in a matter of 24 hours. Luckily the Symposium day was hosted in the gorgeous, light-filled architectural masterpiece of the Calgary Central Library. The symposium moved along quickly with 15-minute presentations. Each chef offered a snapshot of why food brings them joy. The standout for me was Shane Harper, the self-taught "Chef de Farm" (or pirate gardener) who manages the 1.5-acre agricultural masterpiece at Restaurant Pearl Morrissette. Widely celebrated as Canada's top dining destination the chef-gardener collaboration alluded to the secret sauce one will experience when dining here. (I will be validating the experience firsthand this August 23rd and cannot wait!) Shane’s team cultivates an astonishing 450 plant varieties on their Niagara plot. He treats the garden as the very first station of the kitchen brigade. Rather than just harvesting mature produce, his team works in lockstep with the chefs to utilize crops at every stage of their life cycle. From micro-greens and early blossoms to young leaves and late-season seeds, this hyper-detailed, non-extractive farming marks a massive shift for a garden, possibly explaining why the restaurant is completely booked through August. Regeneration, Roots, and ResilienceThat spirit of deep, purposeful connection to the earth ran through every Sunday presentation, showcasing the passion of the speakers who travelled to share their craft. Paul Rogalski and Irish Chef Peter McKenna (Bistro 1155) championed the humble dandelion - the traditional target of weed killer - as a nutrient-dense, ecosystem-friendly marvel. Their dandelion espresso martini alone earned a standing ovation in my notebook and a joyful call to "hear the land speaking." Chef Jason Bangerter of Langdon Hall spoke of "quiet leadership" and the emotional power of a taste of place. He evoked childhood summers fishing for pickerel in Georgian Bay, and lobster boils and fresh bread in Nova Scotia. At Langdon Hall, those memories shape two sprawling culinary gardens where "everything wild grows." Galway-based Chef JP McMahon of Michelin-starred Aniar challenged the room to fight "nature blindness" by teaching guests to identify wild foods, serving dishes cooked in hay or seasoned with wild Japanese rose vinegar to bring a sense of natural wonder to the plate. Then, Daniele Uditi came to the stage, completely re-contextualizing the delicious dinner from the night before. His personal journey was revealed: baking in Naples alongside his mother from age 13, losing her at 23, and moving to Los Angeles at 24 with fresh grief. There, an unscrupulous employer confiscated his passport, leaving him trapped and living in his car on Venice Beach for seven grueling months. Love, resilience, and a refusal to quit were the ingredients in his journey. He got married, secured his papers, and eventually crossed paths with Chris O'Donnell. Moved by Daniele's craft, O'Donnell helped launch Pizzana, which now spans multiple locations and holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand. In the words of Brene Brown, "It takes a lot of courage to be vulnerable". Maybe, at the heart of the craft, these inspired creatives offer us something that we cannot turn away from. They work with a certain creative vulnerability and it nourishes us - body, mind and soul. A Toast to the Journey Celebrating 20 years of success, Terroir Talks 2026 reminds us that true culinary joy is collaborative, creative, and rooted in care for the earth and each other. The chefs who travelled to Calgary, brought with them immense generosity, inspiration, and depth, proving that the future of food as culture is bright, resilient, and deeply connected to the land and the people who tend it.
As a wine gal, I can’t help but look at all this passion, resilience, and artistry and want to celebrate it the best way I know how. So, I'm raising a beautifully poured glass of traditional method sparkling wine to the visionary team behind Terroir, to the hands that grow our food, and to many, many more years of sharing these vital stories around the table. Cheers! With thanks to Terroir Symposium & Terroir Talks produced by Arlene Stein, for the media invitation. © 2026 Good Wine Gal. All Rights Reserved.
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AUTHORI'm Good Wine Gal.
I blog about "good wine" and how to find it! Join me on my adventures of finding beautiful wine loving places, people and those special bottles we all get excited about. Archives
July 2026
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