Wine Business: A Wake Up Call For Wine Lovers!

Wake Up Call

You never know what might happen when you send an invite on LinkedIn. Will it vanish into the digital ether, or land in a live inbox? And even then, will a human at the other end care enough to respond? Recently, I took a chance and sent a connection request to Andrew Jefford, lamenting the global shifts in wine consumption and how they're challenging our local industry. 

Wine's Under Siege

To my great surprise and delight, Andrew Jefford responded with a kind message that restored my faith in reaching out, taking chances, and in the powerful connections that make our industry great. Jefford is a leading English wine writer living in the South of France (my dream!), and his regular column in Decanter Magazine carries immense weight (my other dream!). His response highlighted the joy of global connection in a business under pressure, reminding us that we are a community and not alone on this unique journey of wine.

In our brief correspondence, Jefford offered assurance that BC is not alone. In fact, he revealed the South of France is also in perilous times. He then sent me his January 2025 column, which truly brought things into sharp focus. The title says it all: "Wine Under Siege." Wine lovers, this isn't just theory; this is a stark, unvarnished look at the current and ever-changing global industry landscape.

The Decline: Wine Numbers That Don’t Sparkle

In his column, Jefford paints a picture that's less "rosé all day" and more a sobering global reality:

• Drinking Less: The trend continues, with global wine consumption falling to its lowest in over six decades in 2024, down 3.3% from the previous year. The USA, still the largest market, saw a 5.8% drop in 2024, and Canada experienced a 6.4% decline. While China, after significant previous drops, saw total wine imports return to growth in 2024 (up 13.7% in volume) following the removal of Australian tariffs, the overall global picture in many mature markets is one of decreasing consumption. [Source: OIV, April 2025]
• Vineyard Vanishing: France's grubbing-up scheme is progressing. In late 2024, 5,418 growers agreed to pull up 27,461 hectares of vineyards, receiving €109.8 million in compensation. This profound, market-driven decision directly addresses oversupply. [Source: Decanter, November 2024]
• Wine Lakes & Lost Sales: Australia's wine surplus situation is evolving. While oversupply persists, exports to mainland China surged in 2024 following tariff removals. However, exports to other global markets declined, indicating continued challenges. New Zealand wine exports also saw a significant drop, with an 11% decline in value for the year ending June 2024. [Source: Wine Australia, January 2025; Drinks International, October 2024]
• Giants Feeling the Squeeze: Major players are divesting. Pernod Ricard finalized the sale of its international wine portfolio (including Jacob's Creek, Campo Viejo) to Australian Wine Holdco Limited (AWL) in April 2025, creating Vinarchy. Accolade Wines (Hardys!) was also acquired by AWL in 2024 due to an "unsustainable balance sheet." Even the fine wine market, though showing some resilience, was described as "extremely challenging" in early 2025. [Source: Shanken News Daily, April 2025; Liv-ex, February 2025]

To truly grasp the scale, it's not only wine feeling the pinch. Scotch exports are down 18%. US beer sales are at their lowest since the 1970s! The entire adult beverage world is experiencing this squeeze. As Good Wine Gal living right here in the heart of BC Wine Country, I've been observing these seismic shifts and their very real, very serious impact on our vibrant, vulnerable, BC wine industry.

Unpacking the "Why"

Jefford delves into the big questions behind this global wine wobble, and it’s compelling:
1. The Health Train: Jefford asks, "Are health messages behind these figures? Perhaps." He specifically points to the World Health Organization's January 2023 statement: "No level of alcohol consumption is safe," suggesting "the risk to the drinker’s health starts from the first drop." Jefford’s brilliant perspective shines through: "Indeed? Then the risk of violent death starts from every child’s first breath, too." This thought-provoking parallel highlights how "catchy if disproportionate messages" infiltrate public consciousness. Gallup says 65% of young Americans think even moderate drinking is bad.
My Good Wine Gal Take: I support informed choices about health, absolutely. But my philosophy has always been rooted in responsible enjoyment. Wine is not inherently bad for you; it's overconsumption that creates risks. It’s about appreciating quality, not mindless quantity. It’s about wine's beautiful, millennia-old role in culture, connection to culinary delight, and cultivating the desire to learn about and not shy away from a well-chosen glass. 

2. The "No-Lo" Nuisance & New Niches: Jefford describes the surge in No-Lo (no-alcohol/low-alcohol) drinks as "the most mysterious trend I’ve ever seen," calling them "expensive and unsatisfying pastiches." He poses a fair question: "Just… why?" when a world of delicious mineral waters, teas, coffees, and juices already exists. He also mentions the rise of cannabis and herb-infused drinks challenging wine.
My Take: As I wrote last week, as a value and quality seeker, I find that many No-Lo offerings often lack the genuine taste and authentic experience that truly define a "good" wine. Jefford's observation about "pastiches" rings true, especially when we consider the unique complexities and cultural resonance of traditional wine.
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3. The Wallet & The Weather Woes: Jefford also points fingers at rising costs. Post-Covid inflation and soaring duties make "good wine an expensive treat; cheap wine rarely delicious." Then there's the factor we feel acutely here in BC: climate change. Spain's wine crisis, he notes, isn't about less drinking, but about drought.
My BC Connection: Here in BC, our winemakers and operators have been battling climate events with fierce determination. Those devastating winter freezes in late 2022 and early 2024 absolutely decimated our harvests. Preliminary estimates from Wine Growers British Columbia for our 2024 vintage projected a heartbreaking 97-99% decrease in grape harvest in the Okanagan Valley. These are massive losses, costing time and money as the valley awaits vine recovery and successful replanting. It's truly a brutal time for our local industry, on top of these global pressures.

​Wine Endures with YOU as Its Champion!

Despite all this, Andrew Jefford offers a dose of profound, poetic optimism that resonates with me: "It’s easy to be despondent, but remember how bad things have been in the past. Nothing replaces wine. It’s beautiful, culturally rewarding and emotionally moving. It connects us to places on earth, to our dreams, to our ancestors. It’s been with us for 8,000 years; its quality has never been better. Along with firelight and song, wine is humanity’s oldest friend. This is a hard pass; but wine will endure."  

My take: Our BC wineries are fighting for their livelihood. Artists at heart, they create economy as their reward. They're stewarding the land, creating jobs, building communities, and pouring passion into every glass. When you choose a BC wine, you're not just buying a bottle. You're investing in the romance of a dream. You're voting for the enduring "good life" that wine, when loved and enjoyed responsibly, brings to our lives and our future.

Support LOCAL!

So, how can you play a part in this ongoing struggle and truly elevate your “Wine Life" in the face of these challenges? It's simple, it's fun, and it makes a huge difference:

• Go Visit! Get out there, explore your local wineries! Experience the terroir, chat with the winemakers, and buy direct from the source. It's the most impactful way to show your love!
• Ask for BC Wine! Next time you're at your favorite restaurant or liquor store, ask for BC wine. Let them know what you want to see on the shelves! Whether it's "Crafted in BC," "BC VQA," or a favorite winemaker, ask for your next bottle by name.
• Share the Love! Post about your favorite BC wines on social media! Tag the wineries, tell everyone you know. Your enthusiasm is contagious!
• Be Adventurous! Step outside your comfort zone and discover the incredible diversity our province offers, from crisp aromatic whites to elegant, bold reds. There's a BC wine for every palate!

Andrew Jefford's voice for wine's endurance inspires us to champion our local wine heroes. Let's raise a glass to the future of BC wine! Cheers. And thank you, Mr. Jefford, for the connection and the inspiration. Salut!

​What are YOUR thoughts on all this? And which BC wines are currently making your heart sing? Drop a comment below – I want to hear from you!