Wine Recommendations: Black Market's Unexpectedly Delicious Reds, Whites, and Rosé

A Maverick's Tale: Black Market's Rise 

Rob Hammersley, owner and winemaker at Black Market Wine, is a true "maverick," a term he'd likely appreciate given the winery's name and philosophy. Nestled on the shores of Skaha Lake in Kaleden, BC, Black Market has a history of defying convention. What began as a "side hustle" by Rob and his wife, Michelle, who would "smuggle" unique, small-batch wines from BC back to Calgary, has blossomed into a resilient and thriving winery. The foundation of Black Market's character is built on old vines, unconventional grape varieties, and a passion for crafting wines that tell a story—even when the story is about a devastating frost.

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Winemaking & The Art of Blending

Rob's winemaking philosophy is rooted in a "less is more" approach, focusing on minimal intervention and allowing the terroir and fruit to speak for themselves. This philosophy is most evident in the Unsanctioned Small Lot Merlot ($39.00), which hails from a small plot of “old” Kaleden vines. It's the first red from that vineyard and spent 21 months in third-fill barrels, showcasing a hands-off approach that allows the character of the fruit to shine. This is a contrast to the 2021 Estate Series Merlot ($39.00), which saw 30 months in 40% new French oak, demonstrating Rob's ability to adapt his methods to each specific lot of grapes. 

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His willingness to experiment extends to his events. The "Art of Blending" workshop is a perfect example of this. As part of an intimate group, Rob guided participants through the concept of blending, beginning with a tasting of a classic E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône to discuss how master blenders achieve their results. Participants then took on the role of winemaker, using Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre from Washington State under the "Crafted in BC" designation to create their own perfect blend. This unique, hands-on experience not only educates but also creates a tangible, personal connection to the winery, with each person receiving a bottle of their own creation to be enjoyed within the next 12 months. 

What's Going On in the Vineyard

Like Noble Ridge's serendipitous discovery of a lost vine row, Black Market has its own tale of unexpected resilience. Upon acquiring the property, Rob inherited a small block of Bacchus vines, a rarity in the Okanagan. Bacchus is a Vitis vinifera cross that thrives in cooler climates and is a big deal in England for its high acidity, which makes it perfect for sparkling wines. After the devastating 2024 frost, Rob allowed the vines to recover. The result was a surprise—Bacchus shoots began to reappear alongside the Merlot that had been grafted onto their rootstocks. This natural "field blend" of grapes is a testament to the old vines' ability to survive and adapt. It's an example of nature and a winemaker's patience working in harmony. This unexpected blending of history and future in a single row of vines perfectly captures the serendipity that makes wine so special.

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Recommendation - Collusion Series Cinsault Rose 2024

Collusion Series Cinsault Rose 2024 is 100% Cinsault with an abv of 12.1%. At $26 (price at the winery) makes this a bargain. If you are looking for a perfect Rose, this might be it. Taking after the elegance and delicate color often associated with Rose from Provence, this offers both something beautiful to look at and with that apprecaition, it's followed by delicate fruit aromas and flavours that include fresh berries, green peach skins and orange citrus on the finish. There is a lovely texture on the palate that supports the freshness and balance. You might want to add triple cream brie and fresh baguettes to your table when this is served. If you don't believe me, you can check out Anthony Gismondi's Top 10 BC Roses for 2024. Cinsault is a grape variety that hopefully takes root in here in the Okanagan. 

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Visit Kaleden & Black Market Wines

Black Market is a must-visit for anyone who appreciates character, authenticity, and a great story in their wine. The view from their tasting room patio, overlooking Skaha Lake, is spectacular and provides the perfect backdrop for a portfolio tasting or the unique "Art of Blending" experience. You can book a tasting online or stop by for a visit during their open hours. Be sure to tell them "Good Wine Gal"sent you!