"Cru"? What does it mean? Here are 10 wines to answer the question.

​The Vancouver International Wine Festival 2023 kicked off the week with a renewed sense of vibrant celebration. It feels like Covid never happened. The celebration of food, wine and theater kicked the doors of international wide open counting down in Portuguese as South America features as the wine region of focus. Not to be overshadowed, Brazil makes wine too!

The Global "Cru" Seminar Wine Review 2023

The traditional Grand Tastings and seminars are back and totally switched on to what’s new and what’s happening in the wine world. Seminars are a great way to continue your wine education and discover the best wines of the event. In this seminar, The Global Cru, the discussion focused on meaning. Is a "cru" wine something more delicious? Or more expensive? Cru is a French word with no real translation and it refers to a site or single vineyard that is unique in some way making extraordinary wine versus the plot of land just around the corner.

 A good example is Chambertin - Clos de Bèze. This 15 hectare vineyard was planted by nuns in the 6th century and 15 centuries later the vineyard is designated grand cru where terroir is considered better here than on the 6 other grand cru sites that hyphenate with Chambertin. Cru one could argue then refers to a unique history, the best terroir for the grapes and passionate Vignerons producing a style of wine that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world. In this delicious session we explored top grape varieties and producers from around the world, each presenting his or her own definition of the word “cru”.

The Global Cru was moderated by the energetic Italian wine guy Filippo Barolotta and local wine guy James Nevison (Province, @hadaglass) along with a panel of international wine celebrities demonstrating the specific character and style unique to their property and brands. Many spoke to best efforts, tiny plots, careful selection and focused attention to shepherding the wine from fermentation to bottle. And while the discussion explored cru’s meaning, it was concluded that the only way to provide answers was to taste wine. And lucky for the attendees, the wines were exceptional.

Adrianna Vineyards "White Stones" Chardonnay 2020, Catena Zapata

​The panel discussion kicked off with Dr Laura Catena of Catena Zapata Wines. She reminded us that there is no better word to describe a sense of place than “cru” and culture plays into “cru”. Presenting Adrianna Vineyard “White Stones” 2020, the only white wine in the room, we heard a story of chardonnay planted in 1992 at high elevation which brings ripe fruit and freshness to the wine. White stones are made of calcium carbonate and cover this 2 acre parcel which results in a thrilling style of 100% Chardonnay in a Chablis-esk, mineral driven, style.

Tasting Note: Lean, mineral and focused chardonnay with no apparent oak. It has good structure, age-ability and profound length. 

Ocio Pinot Noir 2019, ​Cono Sur Vineyards,

​Carol Anai Koch Gonzalez from Cono Sur Vineyards and Winery presented Ocio Pinot Noir 2019 from Casablanca Valley in Chile. 2003 saw the first vintage of what is now a cru wine. While historically only 20 years old, this wine is more about time and place. Casablanca and San Antonio are in close proximity to the Pacific ocean. The cool oceanic influence brings more red fruit to the wine. Grapes are planted on red clay and granite soils which give mineral character to this Pinot Noir expressing elegance as well as concentrated aromas and flavours that are distinctive to this vineyard. 

Tasting Note: Salty and vibrant with great acidity and alluring texture. It’s juicy with lots of concentrated flavour and a good finish. Look out Burgundy.

Reuben's Private Reserve 2011, Korta Katarina

With vineyards overlooking the Adriatic Sea, the romance of Croatia can’t be missed. Petar Delic from Vinarija Korta Katarina presented Ruben’s Private Reserve 2011 made from old vines Plavic Mali grown to the south on the Dalmatian coast. Vines grow on limestone and brown soil which absorb water needed during the very hot summers. Grapes ripen with help from 2000 sunlight hours, lots of heat and UV light reflected from the sea. There are only 3000 bottles made of this special cru wine defined by its unique and specific terroir.

Tasting note: The aromas and flavour profile are tertiary. The garnet color in the glass is the first clue that this wine has developed in the bottle. Aromas of bruised black berry fruit, balsamic crema, dark chocolate and sea salt. In its youth this would be very tannic but with age it’s showing smooth integrated tannins, concentration of flavour, with full body structure. 

Rioja Reserva 2018, Marques de Riscal

​You may not recognize Jose Luis Muguiro Jr, our fourth panelist, but it’s likely you will recognize the name Marques de Riscal Winery and Hotel along with the 2018 Rioja Reserva. Architect Frank Ghery provides the Canadian connection having designed this iconic, whimsical, colorful wave-like structure. Complete with a Michelin star restaurant, the reputation of high quality goes beyond age worthy wines made from indigenous Tempranillo and Graciano. Jose says cru is a “sense of place”. His family has been making wine here since 1858 in the Basque region of the Rioja DOCG. Located between the Sierra des Cantabria mountains and the Rio Mayor, this exceptional site is a microclimate that features a lot of heat and wind. This wine is made from 100 year old vines giving flavour to history, terroir and the meaning of “cru”. 

Castello Fonterutoli Gran Selezione 2018,
​Chianti Classico, Marchese Mazzei

If history is essential to cru, then look no further than Marchesi Mazzei and Giovanni Mazzei, a family member who presented Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2018. This is considered a cru as grapes in this wine come only from this ancient estate vineyard. The family’s origins can be traced back to the 11th century when they were coopers (barrel makers). Fonterutoli and Chianti Classico were first documented in 1398 as a recorded business transaction. In 1435, the family started wine making and has continued for 26 generations. The best vineyards and best selections of sangiovese are at the heart of Mazzei having propagated over 40 varieties of Sangiovese. 

Tasting Note: Pretty aromas and concentrated flavors of bright red fruit, oak spice, soy, black tea rich and soft. Very approachable with great drinkability. This is a very special wine.

Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione 2016

In stark contrast to the Mazzei family, youthful Tuscan producer Rocca delle Macie, proprietor Sergio Zingarelli presented Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2016. Established in 1973 by Zingarelli’s father, a famous Italian stunt man, this wine is a tribute to Italo Zingarhelli who bought the winery 50 years ago. The term cru applies to careful selection of Sangiovese fruit from estate vineyards with a first vintage in 2010, the same year as the Gran sélezione regulations in Chianti Classico came into effect. These sangiovese vineyards are terraced to create better exposure for the grapes better ripening at 380 meters of elevation on soils that give minerality considered unique to Tuscany.

Tasting note: This 100% Sangiovese style is medium bodied with a good balance of acidity, fruit and alcohol. There is a lovely texture and long finish on an oak spice note. 

​Barolo 2017, Serrralunga D'Alba, Giovanni Rosso

​Heading north, the next wine was Piemontese, presented by Daniele Dallanoce, International export director - Giovanni Rosso Barolo Serralunga DOCG 2017. Here is an example of cru that is about the people. Barolo is home to 350 families with different villages and 11 crus in a small area of just 20 ha total. Here Nebbiolo must be a perfect copy of terroir and Daniele thinks cru is about the vineyard and the people who manage it. 

Tasting note: Aromas are floral, slate with hints of liquorice with similar flavours. The body is medium but the power is full on. Its texture is silky and drying. It has great balance and concentration leading to a long finish. 

Silica 2020, AOC Ventoux, Chateau Pesquie

​On to France with Frederic Chaudiere, Proprietor/Winemaker at Château Pesquie in Ventoux and a celebrated brand in the BC market. Chaudiere believes soil is the key to cru. Silica AOC Ventoux 2020 is the new world in the old world. For reference, Ventoux is located south of the Rhone Valley under the Ventoux mountain where Syrah vines grow on silica and limestone, and Grenache vines on sand at higher elevations. Climate change is making survival key, so finding new terroir is the focus here. 

Tasting note: Round and rich with tension and texture. Fruit concentration and deep color are highlights followed by flavour intensity and finish making this a beautiful wine. 

Founder's Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Errazuriz Winery

Named after the Founder Don Maximiano, Errazuriz is a great example of world class wine. Cinthia Morabito, Marketing Manager shared 2017 Founder’s Cabernet Sauvignon pointing to history and people's influence in creating a “cru” vineyard. Established in 1870 Errazuriz has built one of the oldest estates in Chile. The first vintage was 1983. Originally this wine was more French than Chilean which was the style of the 90s with a fuller body, grippy and higher alcohol. Now the focus is on more fresh fruit and silky tannins. True to form, the style is made from a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 8% Carmenere, 7% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc.

The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
​To Kalon Vineyard, Robert Mondavi 

Chad Harding presented the California cru To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2019. Robert Mondavi’s wine life started here in Oakville, California with vineyards right behind the arch on the now iconic Napa winery. The vision was to create world class wine from this single vineyard where vines grow on ancient alluvial fans. What’s unique about the vineyard? It’s the soils. Free draining gravel soil lays at the back of the vineyard and sand is at the front. This combination with Cabernet Sauvignon vines produces an elegant wine, rich and ripe, with fantastic intensity, fine tannin texture and a long finish. Classic from 97.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2.5% Petit Verdot.

Tasting note: Lots of smokey black cassis and black berry fruit with black tea and clove spice, some olive tapenade and dried herbs. Complex and intense this wine has fantastic texture and flavours that carry to the end. 

Adrianna Vineyard  "River", Malbec 2019, Catena Zapata

​Catena Zapata of Tupungato Argentina presented the final wine. Dr Laura Catena, Managing Director, shared the story of Adrianna Vineyard “River” Malbec 2019. Here Malbec is grown on pre-phylloxera vines from massal selection on a 2.5 hectare block. “Stony soil Malbec's tend to be extremely aromatic, rich and luxurious”. No where else in the world does this representation of Malbec exist. The vineyard is planted at a high altitude of 1500 meters on soils that are stony and sandy. Robert Parker gave it 100 points. Need I say more.

Tasting note: Medium bodied, fresh and vibrant with great tension and balance. The wine is silky with fine grain tannins drying gently to the elegant finish. 

Conclusion

​In the end, the definition of cru can be found high in the Andes, along the coast of Chile, in the heart of Napa and around the world, on sites that have unique terroir and passionate people willing to do the work. The work to grow vines and make wine for some Vignerons, is a way to pay homage to the family legacy. For others the passion is just about just making “good wine”. For the wine lover, it’s part of the journey of learning, tasting and sharing the love of wine.

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