Valtellina: Nebbiolo Mountain Wines

A Wine LIst from Tasting Valtellina Wines in Sondrio

Without a doubt, visiting the vineyards of Valtellina was one of the highlights of 2022! This small, under the radar, quality wine region, located in the alps of northern Lombardy, produces stunning Nebbiolo wines from steep terraced vineyards left by the Romans more than 1500 years ago. The breathtaking views, the pristine mountain air and the fantastic wine and food will inspire you to put a pin in your travel map on the village of Sondrio. If you want to know more, keep reading. If you missed part one, here is the link.  

After a fantastic lunch hosted by Vini di Valtellina, we headed to an underground cavern in Sondrio where we continued our wine education by tasting and talking with winemakers and owners. While Valtellina is a fine wine capital, it's not well known. If you would like to experience wine styles of Valtellina, here are a few standouts from my recent trip. Please see the labels below and then message your favorite wine shop and ask if any of these styles are available in your market. A charcuterie board filled with lean thinly sliced, dried beef, brined and aged goat, cheese - both wash rind and hard, plus sliced buckwheat baguette and you'll be on your way to enjoying Valtellina in style.

Bottle labels are fairly straightforward, even if Italian is not your language. Most quality wines spend time in barrel. If the label indicates Superiore, it refers to the grape selection being the finest from the vineyard, and Riserva refers to the extended aging in barrel and bottle. Barrels range from new oak to large neutral wood foudre (which by design add texture but rarely add flavour). 

From the first encounter to this grand tasting event, Nino Negri 5 Stelle Sfursat is still stunning! Photo by Barb Wild

Nino Negri

Nino Negri is a jewel in the Gruppo Italiano Vini, and one of the oldest wineries in Valtellina. Efforts to distinguish each wines personality based on single vineyard terroir, requires orientation and a fine palate. The labels are differentiated by color, Cru and vineyard. Exceptional detail producing age worthy wines.

• Valtellina Superiore Grumello Vigna Sassorosso 2019 - vines grow in schist soils, made up of glacier rocks that have totally eroded. Vines struggle and the result is an elegant, mineral driven wine with silky tannins, red fruit (cherry) and a flinty note with good acidity, which is a bit of a surprise and delight.

 

• Valtellina Superiore Inferno Vigna CaGuicciardi 2019 - here black and blue ripe fruit flavours supported by floral aromas (roses) again with great acidity and a mineral salty textured wine.  The finish lingers on notes of black cherry, herbs and spice.

 

• Valtellina Superiore Valgella Vigna Fracia 2018 - here with aromas of wet stone (slate) red and black fruit (cherry and boysenberry) with nice fine grain tannins and texture to the end of this lengthy finish. 

 

• 5 Stelle Sfurzat di Valtellina 2018 - benchmark richness, balance and flavour. Here Nebbiolo grapes are dried (passito) much like the grapes used to make Amarone. This process causes the grapes to lose 30% water concentrating the juices to bring out this rich, voluptuous style that focuses on ripe red fruit (raspberry coulis), vanilla, mocha and sweet black cherry jam. The palate is rich, full bodied with high alcohol, balanced dangerously well and finishes on a lovely textured note. ​ ​

Stone wall terraces of Marsetti Vineyards at 500 meters. Photo by Barb Wild

​​Azienda Agricola Alberto Marsetti

​Azienda Agricola Alberto Marsetti is a boutique family winery that produces about 60 thousand bottles a year, established in 1986 by Alberto to carry on the work started by his grandfather, uncle and father. Winemaker Andreas Pilatti explains that Chestnut is the only wood used here. He tours us up to the vineyards at 500 meters and down to the winery in the underground cellars of Sondrio. 

• Rosso di Valtellina 2021 is bright ruby in the glass, medium bodied with fresh aromas and flavours of juicy cherries, spice and a blend of mountain herbs. The mineral undertones are present, great tension and balance.

 

• Valtellina Superiore Grumello 2018 shows aromas and flavours of black cherry, balsamic and black tea on top of a spice layer. This style is silky with fine grain tannins. The finish is long with notes of mineral, pepper and baking spice - complex and intense. This could age but is perfect to drink now.

 

• Valtellina Superiore Grumello Vigna le Prudenze 2018 brings a lot of complexity from mineral notes to red fruit compote, black tea and balsamic character. The palate is very fresh, dry with robust, textured tannins. There is a ripe candied fruit note that leads to a long rich finish. Complex, intense and definitely age worthy. This pairs perfectly with aged hard cheese.

A fantastic Rosso di Valtellina from Arpepe. Photo by Barb Wild

Arpepe

Arpepe is a family owned and operated 150 old estate winery run by the 5th generation of passionate winemakers. Their mantra of right time, perfection in the details shines through in wines that focus on respect for tradition.

• Rosso di Valtellina 2020 has sweet red plum and floral aromas. On the palate nice complexity and intensity with a medium body, fresh acidity and chalky tannins along with a crunchy red fruit, pepper spice finish. Fresh, savory and delightful.

The line-up of wines from Mamete Prevostini. Photo by Barb Wild

Mamete Prevostini ​

Mamete Prevostini arrived in Valtellina in 2013. He made his reputation in the cellar starting in 1996. He recently purchased the Covent San Lorenzo that contains 80 rooms and overlooks Sondrio. It is home to the Sassella cru vineyard from which Clos San Lorenzo is made. 

• Monrose - Alpi Retiche IGT is a fantastic rosato from 100% nebbiolo with heady red fruit aromas that follow on the palate with lots of great refeshing acidity. A wonderful, unexpected style. 

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• Opera - Alpi Retiche IGT is a full bodied white blend from Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco and Incrocio Manzoni. In the glass, there is a bright lemon hue, flavours of dried apples, lime toast, green peach with a juicy and racy citrus and mineral spine with a long finish. Sadly 2019 is sold out. ​

Cristina Scarpellini and her feature Valtellina label. Photo by Barb Wild

​Tenuta Scersce

Tenuta Scersce is located in Sondrio and is the passion project of Cristina Scarpellini, a lawyer by training. Cristina is part of Donne del Vinno, and has been winemaker of her boutique brand since 2008. 
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• Cristina Scarpellini Valtellina Superiore Valgella Riserva is bright ruby with aromas and flavours of mineral and spices, red fruits and coffee bean. There is tension, balance and a fine silky finish. ​

Cheers to Valtellina with wine friends. Photo by Barb Wild

​The Terre Vino Wine Bar

The Terre Vino Wine Bar
If you go you must visit Terre Vino, a wine bar near the center of Sondrio run by the most energetic, knowledgeable Calabrian food and wine guy in town - Mario. He’ll pour you a sip of Rosso di Valtellina and slice up fresh buckwheat bread, dried aged meats and local alpine cheeses. If you are lucky he’ll introduce you to grolini di capra - dried, aged goat leg, smoked for 3 - 4 months, or classic Bitto (deep fried dumplings filled with cheese). ​

A feast of local fare at Terre Vino in Sondrio. Photo by Barb Wild

Conclusion

There is no place as visually spectacular with as deep a cultural heritage and passion for wine like Valtellina. It has left an indelible mark not only on my taste buds or smartphone (thousands of images) but also in my heart. There is something soulful about this beautiful mountainous area with its passionate winemakers reaching for the stars, in very difficult conditions, that left me feeling forever connected to this historic community. If you are traveling to Italy in 2023, put Valtellina on your list. At the minimum, visit your favorite local wine shop and ask about wines from Valtellina. One sip and you'll be waxing poetic and booking a flight.

​Cheers and thank you for reading. Happy holidays to you and your wine-loving heart!
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